Al Ha’esh: Inside Shukette’s Charcoal Fire Cooking

Al Ha’esh translates roughly to “from the fire,” and at Shukette it isn’t a decorative menu heading. The section groups everything cooked directly over natural hardwood charcoal, and it’s built around an open kitchen where the grill is visible from most of the dining room, including the 23-seat counter that wraps around the cooking line — the same counter covered in our guide to walk-in seating.

Why charcoal instead of a gas grill

Natural hardwood charcoal burns hotter and less evenly than gas, which sounds like a downside until you understand what it’s doing to the food. The uneven heat creates pockets of intense char alongside gentler cooking zones, and the wood itself contributes smoke that a gas flame simply can’t replicate. It’s slower and harder to control, which is exactly why restaurants that use it tend to build their identity around it rather than treating it as one cooking method among several — it’s one of the clearest differences we point to in comparing Shukette to its sister restaurant, Shuka.

The four dishes that show it off best

• Joojeh Chicken – a saffron-yogurt marinated half chicken, served with toum, where the yogurt marinade caramelizes against the charcoal for a deeper crust than a typical roast chicken
• Grass-Fed Steak Shish Kebab – served with carrot harissa and preserved lemon, with the char adding a bitterness that balances the sweetness of the harissa
• Fish in a Cage – a whole porgy grilled with fennel and green charmoula, cooked inside a hinged grilling basket that lets it be flipped without falling apart over direct flame
• Lamb Kebab – braised leeks and pickled chili alongside the grilled lamb, with the smoke cutting through the richness of the meat

What to expect if you’re not used to smoke-forward food

Charcoal cooking reads as more assertive than most people expect the first time they order from this section, especially if their usual frame of reference is a gas-grilled steakhouse. The char isn’t subtle, and dishes like the Joojeh Chicken carry a noticeably smokier profile than a home-cooked version of the same marinade would. If you’re ordering for a table that’s sensitive to smoke, the fish tends to be the gentlest introduction, since the citrus and herb charmoula soften the effect. If you’re sitting at the counter right next to the grill, it’s also worth a quick look at our dress code guide before you go.

Pairing Al Ha’esh dishes with the rest of the menu

Because the grilled dishes are intense on their own, they work best next to something lighter rather than another heavy plate. The Jeweled Rice, with saffron, cranberry, and pistachio, is a common pairing because its sweetness offsets the char. A cooling dip like Labneh or Beet Tzatziki from the bread station also works well as a palate reset between bites of anything off the grill. On the drinks side, our wine list guide covers a few reds built to stand up to this much smoke.